We arrived at Lourdes having driven through some torrential rain. The sat nav led us down narrow streets filled with people and what looked like mini-Blackpool (but more on that later).
Our apartment was quite close to the Sanctuary and was a strange mix of really good and really bad. There were, however, wonderful views from it.
We set off to find the sanctuary for 9pm, the Marian procession, not knowing what to expect. I’d seen photos of it, with many people carrying candles, but it seemed hard to think that there would be many there, at this time of night when the weather was really not good. How wrong I was.
We arrived beside a large square where officials kept people back. A choir was singing on the steps of the basilica which was about 2oo yards to the left. People were walking around carrying candles with paper shades on. We then saw a large procession, led by a priest with people in wheelchairs (and bath chairs) being pushed, about 10 across and 10 lines deep. Behind them followed others. There must have around 1000 people there (possibly more) – a small number in comparison to other nights. They all moved forward, slowly, to the steps of the basilica where the choir was singing, joining in with the anthem ‘Alleluia’.
My feelings were very mixed. A bit like at Taize, I felt like I was an onlooker, trying to understand what I was seeing. So many people who were ill, disabled, suffering and others who were supporting them – here in Lourdes, hoping for what? A miracle? Healing? Just to be here? A touch from God? And why? What was it all about really? False hope? Expectations raised only to be dashed when they didn’t receive the healing they craved?
My thoughts and emotions needed to find some understanding, as there must surely be more to this than I was able to see.
With much to reflect on we returned back to the apartment, wondering what the following day would bring.
The new day brought low cloud, shrouding the funicular but at least it was dry – though the forecast showed that it wouldn’t stay that way.
We walked back to the sanctuary, passing by hotel after hotel, restaurant after restaurant, tourist shop after tourist shop. At least they had the feel of tourist shops, or were they?
The commercialisation of a religious site. At first, all I could think of was Jesus overturning the tables. People profiteering out of people’s hopes and faith. Stores selling plastic bottles in the shape of Saint Bernadette, or glass bottles, or 5 litre containers. Images of Mary, images of Bernadette, crosses, rosaries, jewellery, stoles and chausibles, communion sets, traditional tourist items with Lourdes written on them. Street after street was lined with these shops. At that point, it all seemed wrong, this commercialisation of religion, but perhaps my mind changed a little later on.
Once we entered the gate to the sanctuary, all the commercialisation was gone and we were faced with the startling view of the basilica. We still didn’t know what we were really looking at and why so found the 20 minute video that was shown in the information centre.
The video helped to put it all into perspective. The story of Bernadette Soubrie, who, as unschooled 14 year old, who only knew the Our Father and the rosary, had a series of extraordinary visions, whilst out with the sheep. In an overhang of a cliff she had a vision of a young woman who then appeared to her 18 times. She talked to Bernadette about sin and penance and then gave an instruction for Bernadette to tell the Priest that a church was to built on that spot and that a procession was to be held. People thought her mad but against the odds she persevered. The Priest told her to ask the lady’s name. Bernadette came back to him to say that her name was ‘Immaculate Conception’. When asked if she understood what this meant, she said ‘no’. The Priest believed her story because she didn’t know what this meant or that this mean that the lady was ‘Mary’. Bernadette was told to dig in the soil and out of this a spring flowed. A woman, Catherine, on coming to this place, put her arm in the water and it was healed. Following on from this, the people held a procession and a chapel was built. There was already a community of nuns who cared for the sick and infirm, close by and it was these nuns, who, over time, helped those who were ill and suffering and are still there today. Bernadette herself went on to be become a Nun. The procession has been held every night since then in accordance with the lady in the vision gave to Bernadette and Lourdes grew as a place of pilgrimage, of faith and of hope and healing. 7000 healings are said to have taken place and 70 of these have been verified as miracles by a medical team who are part of the Lourdes community, the last one of these was in February 2018. Bernadette said of the water, that it has no particular properties and the water is just water without faith.
For me, the thing that helps to make more sense of Lourdes, is that this story is from 1865. A time when things were documented. Other religious sites have been based in myth because they have been from such a long time ago that no one really know what happened. Bernadette’s story, however, is more current and is well documented both by her and by the church.
So the procession we saw last night, is a direct result of the vision. The prayers are acts of repentance and for healing. People come to drink the water and to put it on their face and to bathe, because people have received healing here. They come because this is all a sign that points to Jesus.
Visiting the Church of the Rosary, the crypt, the basilica, the Church of St Bernadette, the chapel of the adoration, the grotto itself were all important parts of saying, yes, this is a holy place, but for me, it is the faith of the people who come here, faith in a God who heals body mind and spirit, a God who through his son Jesus forgives sin and helps people to find new life. It is the people who travel many miles, just to be there, creating a very temporary community of believers who have a common need, bound together in a desire to experience God’s love. Yes, it is the vision that has caused this, but it is the people who make it holy.
The commercialism that is outside the sanctuary perhaps also serves its own purpose. The coming of pilgrims, means that people need somewhere to stay. This is an extraordinary place so taking a souvenier home seems to be a reasonable thing to want to do. Taking the water home, as a reminder, or for someone else who might not be able to come, appears to have a purpose (though I’m still not convinced that they need to be in Bernadette shaped bottles!!). The Blackpool of religion – perhaps – but nonetheless important for some to remind themselves of this journey they have taken and the God they experienced there.
